How to Make Hood Tapaderos
Follow along to learn how to make hood tapaderos.
Around the country (and the world) different horse cultures have created different solutions to the challenges of using horses. This manifests itself in many ways. Some of those ways include skills, knowledge, language, and daily routines. For example, a Texas cowpuncher will have a completely different set of skills than a jumper from the New England states. They’ll also use different language to describe their horses and their work with them. Another place these cultural differences is easily apparent is with tack.
Because different horse cultures have different purposes, people developed different tack best suited for the tasks that need to be completed. English and western saddles, for example, are very different, and each is suited to a particular way of doing things. There is a myriad of different saddles, bits, training tools, and other pieces of tack, but they are all created to help the horse and/or the rider be more successful. One piece to tack that has many different styles is the tapadero.
As far as I can tell, tapaderos roots in this country can be traced back to the Spanish rancheros of the 1700s. Riding in brush and cactus, they needed something to protect their feet. As a result, they utilized a simple leather covering over the stirrup. Over time, this leather covering, or tapadero, or tap, would take on many different shapes and styles as it was employed over a wider and wider area. Some taps were simple and utilitarian, while others were elaborately carved with huge tips that nearly touched the ground. Even today, people continue to use them in the same ways for the same purposes.
This Frederic Remington painting from 1869 is titled “US cavalry saddle of the period,” and shows the hood tapadero syle used. Image via loc.gov.
Although tapaderos come in many different styles, you’ll probably find one that you like best. One style that I find very useful is the hooded tapadero style used by the US cavalry. These taps are simple and effective. What I like best about them is that they will help prevent the rider’s foot from getting caught in the stirrup. As a dad with two young riders, I appreciate this little piece of insurance to keep them safe. Since our youngest is just getting to use a saddle I made her a set of hood tapaderos. Following is the process I used.
Tools
Required
Rivet Kit (Punch, rivets, setter)
Leather string
Knife
Awl
Pliers
Optional for Edging
Edge Beveler
Leather Slicker
Optional for Stamping
Stamps and Maul
Water
Optional for Dying
Neatsfoot Oil
Rag
PROCESS
Once you’ve got your tools gathered, you can get started. To watch the process, check out this video. For a brief explanation, continue scrolling. Throughout the article, I will be referencing the video, so it may help if you are familiar with it.
Step 1: Getting the Shape
To begin, start by creating a rough outline of the shape. Do this by laying the stirrup on the leather and tracing around it. Be sure to leave some excess on the edge. I left about an inch. If you watch the video, you’ll notice I laid the stirrup on a roll of tape. This provided me with the necessary clearance for a rider’s toe to slide into the stirrup. If the leather was flat against this narrow stirrup, there would have been no place for the rider to place her boot.
After you have the rough shape, you can cut the leather hood out. You will also need some leather buttons or conchos for this project. I used the leather I had to make some simple circles that became my buttons. All told, I made 4 smaller buttons and 4 larger buttons.
Once the leather is all cut, you can start determining where the lacing holes will go. I did this by laying the stirrup on the hood, put my roll of tape in, and then marking where the slots should go with my knife. In hindsight, I should have moved the slots in about a 1/4” on both sides. This would have helped the buttons cover the slots in the end. Once you have the slots marked, you can cut them completely through.
With the lacing slots cut, you can lace the hooded tapadero onto the stirrup. Although you will take this on and off a few more times, try to make sure it is laying how you want it to. Once it is all laced up, you can get a more accurate measurement of how big the tap should be. Take a pencil and mark where it should be cut. I trimmed off most of the excess, but you could leave more if you want to.
At this point, you are ready to unlace the hood and cut it to the specific size you want. Once it is cut, you can flip it over and trace the pattern on your leather for the second one you’ll use. After they are both cut out, you can start with your edge work.
Step 2: Edge Work
Hood tapaderos are simple in their appearance, but they can still benefit from a little edge work. If you want to spend the time, take your edge beveler and knock the edge of all the sides (top and bottom) of all the pieces. You can also use a leather slicker to roll the edge and give it a more finished appearance.
Step 3: Stamping and Carving
Although there is no reason not to stamp or carve a hood tapadero, they typically aren’t as elaborate as the buckaroo-style taps. However, that doesn’t mean you can’t spend the time if you want to. For my project, I did a little stamping around the edge and tried to dress it up a little bit for my daughter. I hope she appreciates the extra art, but I’m mostly glad she had the covering.
Step 4: Oiling
Oiling leather is necessary for your project to last for years and years. For my project, I simply went with the neatsfoot oil treatment on these tapaderos. You may choose to dye the project instead, but I personally like the oiled leather. It’s not only functional, but I think it looks appealing as well. With neatsfoot oil, you do want to be sure not to apply too much. Too much neatsfoot oil will cause the leather to be slick and you’ll get an oily residue that is hard to get rid of. A light coat will color and project your tapaderos from the weather.
Step 5: Bottom Strap
Before you attach the hooded tapadero to your stirrup, you may want to include a bottom strap. This strap wraps around the stirrup tread and connects to the bottom of the tap. I included one for two reasons. First, it pushes out the bottom of the covering for more toe clearance. Secondly, and more importantly for me, it makes sure the toe of a boot won’t get stuck between the stirrup and the tapadero. The whole point of me putting this tapadero on my daughter’s stirrup is to prevent her foot from getting caught. As a result, I included a strap to prevent that from happening. If you watch the video, you will notice that I riveted it on. I could have tied it using leather lacing, but I had the rivets and thought they would make the nicest finish.
Step 6: Attaching
At this point, your hood tapaderos are ready to attach. Here you have a few different options. Some tapaderos are riveted directly to the stirrup. Although rivets are the most secure way to attach them, I went with leather string. As long as the leather stays supple, this method works well.
If you watch the video, you’ll see that I laced the buttons on and then made small slits in the leather lacing. After pulling one string through the slit, I then made a small slit in it. In the end, this simple and traditional method allows you to securely fasten the leather strings.
At this point, the tapderos are ready for use.
Hopefully, this article and video has been helpful to show you how to make hood tapaderos. When you are all done making your taps, you’ll have a nice piece of functional gear. These simple leather coverings have been used by people for hundreds of years for different purposes. Whether you want to keep your feet clear of the brush or keep your kid’s feet from getting stuck, they are a quick, easy, and effective piece of equipment.